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Mangoletsi - Craig Pant Y Fan | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 26.02.07 00:06 Uhr |
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Auf diese Nachricht antworten!  |
Hi group,
I climbed Mangoletsi back in February 1976, I remember it being a good route
which went at HVS.
Checking it out on the [externer Link] \ website I see it is now graded at
E3 6a.
So my questions are; was the climb previously wrongly graded at HVS, Or has
there been a rockfall causing the up-grading of the route?
The only other possible explanation, god forbid, is did it go with aid in
the "old" days, senior moments sometimes cause inconvenient memory lapses
;-)
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Mangoletsi - Craig Pant Y Fan | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 26.02.07 20:29 Uhr |
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| Auf diese Nachricht antworten! |
John Broadwell wrote:
> Hi group,
>
> I climbed Mangoletsi back in February 1976, I remember it being a good route
> which went at HVS.
>
> Checking it out on the [externer Link] \ website I see it is now graded at
> E3 6a.
>
> So my questions are; was the climb previously wrongly graded at HVS, Or has
> there been a rockfall causing the up-grading of the route?
>
> The only other possible explanation, god forbid, is did it go with aid in
> the "old" days, senior moments sometimes cause inconvenient memory lapses
> ;-)
>
>
Put up in '66 with 1 point of aid (Hugh Banner, Baz Ingle). New (free)
finish in '77 by Pete Gomersall. Original finish gets E1 5b in my '83
Tremadog guide (blimey, THAT long ago).
Roy.
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Mangoletsi - Craig Pant Y Fan | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 27.02.07 09:44 Uhr |
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| Auf diese Nachricht antworten! |
John Broadwell <jeb@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
> Hi group,
>
> I climbed Mangoletsi back in February 1976, I remember it being a good route
> which went at HVS.
>
> Checking it out on the [externer Link] \ website I see it is now graded at
> E3 6a.
>
> So my questions are; was the climb previously wrongly graded at HVS, Or has
> there been a rockfall causing the up-grading of the route?
>
> The only other possible explanation, god forbid, is did it go with aid in
> the "old" days, senior moments sometimes cause inconvenient memory lapses
> ;-)
It's the direct finish to the right of Barbarian that gets this grade, a
good pull over a roof and some strenous moves up to an old peg, probably
gone now, followed by a nice technical groove.
The original finish went to the left of the final corner of Barbarian as
I remember.
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Mangoletsi - Craig Pant Y Fan | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 27.02.07 22:33 Uhr |
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| Auf diese Nachricht antworten! |
Roy,
"Mangoletsi Original Way" is graded E3 6a in [externer Link] \ as is
"Mangoletsi" There seems to be no difference in the grading, the only other
thing on the database not offering a grade is "Mangoletsi Pitch One Direct"
Keith, unfortunately it is so long ago now I cannot remember the fine detail
of my own ascent but something at the back of my mind tells me the
"Mangoletsi" I did went at about HVS + and was nowhere near as hard as
either "The Plum" or "Vector" both of which I have done and are now graded
lower than E3 6a?
There must be something else here!??!
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Mangoletsi - Craig Pant Y Fan | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 28.02.07 18:09 Uhr |
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| Auf diese Nachricht antworten! |
John Broadwell wrote:
> Roy,
>
> "Mangoletsi Original Way" is graded E3 6a in [externer Link] \ as is
> "Mangoletsi" There seems to be no difference in the grading, the only other
> thing on the database not offering a grade is "Mangoletsi Pitch One Direct"
Perhaps that's the free grade. The original was apparently HVS with 1
point of aid.
Roy.
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