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Belay devices | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 03.09.07 16:30 Uhr |
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Auf diese Nachricht antworten!  |
Is the HMS Screwgate Crab with a Stitch plate still OK, or has some other
technology replaced that combination?
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Belay devices | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 03.09.07 18:48 Uhr |
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Hi, Gordon & all,
"Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:hPidnRS1bKMth0HbRVnysAA@eclipse.net.uk...
> Is the HMS Screwgate Crab with a Stitch plate still OK, or has some other
> technology replaced that combination?
I'm sure that's still OK, and if that's what you're familiar with, there's
no real reason to change.
There are some more modern belay devices around, though - I expect you've
seen the Black Diamond ATC, the HB Sheriff, DMM Bug, and the Petzl Reverso.
Have a play in a gear shop. Many devices are specific to particular rope
diameters, so you might want to consider that when choosing.
Some people use the Petzly GriGri (and I did until mine was nicked), but in
my rather amateur opinion that's only suitable for use with really strong
anchors such as indoors or on reliably bolted sport routes, as it can lock
the rope really suddenly.
By the way, I find an HMS krab with a twist-gate quite useful for getting a
bight of rope into and out of the belay device, I think mine's a DMM but
there are lots out there. I would only use it where I can keep my hands on
it, though - not for unattended belays.
HTH,
Steve
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Belay devices | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 04.09.07 09:20 Uhr |
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Gordon wrote:
> Is the HMS Screwgate Crab with a Stitch plate still OK, or has some other
> technology replaced that combination?
It's still okay, though something more tubular (e.g., an ATC or similar)
tends to kink the rope a bit less, and a Sticht plate is a bit wee to
properly dissipate heat on a big ab.
I use an ATC now (in my somewhat occasional and rather low grade trad
climbing) though still with an HMS screw. I do have a fig 8 to take
with me for abs on winter routes where the rope can grow to be rather
bigger than its original width, especially if it's not a dry treated one.
Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk [externer Link]
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Belay devices | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 04.09.07 16:24 Uhr |
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"Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:hPidnRS1bKMth0HbRVnysAA@eclipse.net.uk...
> Is the HMS Screwgate Crab with a Stitch plate still OK, or has some other
> technology replaced that combination?
>
Thanks for the responses - I've gone for a DMM Bug....
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Belay devices | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.09.07 11:10 Uhr |
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Hi, Gordon & all,
"Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:SIGdneEgMdoD90DbnZ2dnUVZ8tWnnZ2d@eclipse.net.uk...
> "Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote in message
> news:hPidnRS1bKMth0HbRVnysAA@eclipse.net.uk...
> > Is the HMS Screwgate Crab with a Stitch plate still OK, or has some
other
> > technology replaced that combination?
> >
>
>
> Thanks for the responses - I've gone for a DMM Bug....
Glad to help, nice to find an interesting thread on here.
If the DMM Bug is like it used to be, with a flexible loop to attach it to
the HMS, you might just want to watch out for how you locate the loop so
that it doesn't get dragged into the bight of rope.
Steve
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Belay devices | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.09.07 13:19 Uhr |
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"Steve Pardoe" <steveSP@AMpardoes.com> wrote in message
news:4YSdndooJYZP6UPbRVnyhQA@pipex.net...
> Hi, Gordon & all,
>
> "Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote in message
> news:SIGdneEgMdoD90DbnZ2dnUVZ8tWnnZ2d@eclipse.net.uk...
>> "Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote in message
>> news:hPidnRS1bKMth0HbRVnysAA@eclipse.net.uk...
>> > Is the HMS Screwgate Crab with a Stitch plate still OK, or has some
> other
>> > technology replaced that combination?
>> >
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the responses - I've gone for a DMM Bug....
>
> Glad to help, nice to find an interesting thread on here.
>
> If the DMM Bug is like it used to be, with a flexible loop to attach it to
> the HMS, you might just want to watch out for how you locate the loop so
> that it doesn't get dragged into the bight of rope.
>
> Steve
>
>
The flexible loop appears to be not very flexible!
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