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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 31.08.07 16:36 Uhr |
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I may be returning to climbing in the near future. As I got rid of most of my gear a couple of years ago, what would be the consensus of opinion for a good all-round harness for intermediate (probably up to HVS) grades and some Alpine/Scottish winter work?
ta!
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 31.08.07 17:25 Uhr |
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In message <FNudnXnPR9IKukXbnZ2dnUVZ8rKdnZ2d@eclipse.net.uk> "Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote:
> I may be returning to climbing in the near future. As I got rid of > most of my gear a couple of years ago, what would be the consensus of > opinion for a good all-round harness for intermediate (probably up to > HVS) grades and some Alpine/Scottish winter work? > > ta! >
I'd definitely go to a reputable dealer and seek their advice and try them on and then buy the one that is most comfortable and meets all requirements. It's not something that you want to get wrong in size (dangerous) or in comfort.
The things to consider when looking at features are
[1] Whether you want fixed leg loop sizes or adjustable? I opt for adjustable because I wear my harness for ski-mountaineering as well as summer rock climbing, thus I might be wearing it over thicker winter salopettes or thinner summer trousers/shorts.
[2] Do you want extra-padding for comfort in hanging belays, or do you want it to be small and light giving greater freedom of movement for things such as alpine mountaineering or skiing?
[3] How do you prefer to rack your gear? Rigid gear loops can often be inconvenient if you wish to wear the harness under a rucksack or ski-jacket. You might prefer to carry gear on a bandoler or on the gearloops of a rucksack.
[4] If you're going to be wearing the harness over different layers of clothing, e.g. in summer and winter use, you might want it to adjust from both sides so that you can centre up the belay loop.
Mike -- o/ \\ // |\ ,_ o Mike Clark <\__,\\ // __o | \ / /\, "A mountain climbing, cycling, skiing, "> || _`\<,_ |__\ \> | immunology lecturer, antibody engineer and ` || (_)/ (_) | \corn computer user"
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 31.08.07 17:35 Uhr |
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"Mike Clark" <mrc7@nospam.cam.ac.uk> wrote in message news:7b4a0d1b4f.mrc7offline@mrc7acorn1.path.cam.ac.uk... > In message <FNudnXnPR9IKukXbnZ2dnUVZ8rKdnZ2d@eclipse.net.uk> > "Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote: > >> I may be returning to climbing in the near future. As I got rid of >> most of my gear a couple of years ago, what would be the consensus of >> opinion for a good all-round harness for intermediate (probably up to >> HVS) grades and some Alpine/Scottish winter work? >> >> ta! >> > > I'd definitely go to a reputable dealer and seek their advice and try > them on and then buy the one that is most comfortable and meets all > requirements. It's not something that you want to get wrong in size > (dangerous) or in comfort. > > The things to consider when looking at features are > > [1] Whether you want fixed leg loop sizes or adjustable? I opt for > adjustable because I wear my harness for ski-mountaineering as well as > summer rock climbing, thus I might be wearing it over thicker winter > salopettes or thinner summer trousers/shorts. > > [2] Do you want extra-padding for comfort in hanging belays, or do you > want it to be small and light giving greater freedom of movement for > things such as alpine mountaineering or skiing? > > [3] How do you prefer to rack your gear? Rigid gear loops can often be > inconvenient if you wish to wear the harness under a rucksack or > ski-jacket. You might prefer to carry gear on a bandoler or on the > gearloops of a rucksack. > > [4] If you're going to be wearing the harness over different layers of > clothing, e.g. in summer and winter use, you might want it to adjust > from both sides so that you can centre up the belay loop. >
Thanks for that - I'm trying to get a general feel, as I live right out in the sticks, before I get to a shop.....and not all shops stock all harnesses.....
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 31.08.07 20:47 Uhr |
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On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 16:25:22 +0100, Mike Clark wrote: > I'd definitely go to a reputable dealer and seek their advice and try > them on and then buy the one that is most comfortable and meets all > requirements.
Definitely. Try hanging in it if you can, too.
One more thing: If you've been out of the game for a little while, then you may not have seen non-double-back buckles. Beal started with these ~a decade ago (my first harness). Petzl [a partner's ~5 yo Petzl Calidris has the same feature] and some other manufacturers have followed suit. It's one less thing to forget to do when you're still a bit fuzzy in the gloom at that alpine start.
I've had a "conversation of deaf people" (as they say in these parts) regarding this point. We'd turned up somewhere for a weekend's climbing and - merde! - only one harness between two. We found a random climbing shop, and the salesperson wanted to sell us a nice BD harness, but it had the old-style double-back buckles. I argued that after so many years of not even thinking about doubling-back, this was a risk that I didn't want to take. "Yes", he countered, "but it's absolutely fine if you do remember". But but but....
Anyway. We bought a Mammut, which is also suitable for gold-fish-memoried climbers.
Martin.
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 01.09.07 19:21 Uhr |
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Mike Clark wrote:
> > [4] If you're going to be wearing the harness over different layers of > clothing, e.g. in summer and winter use, you might want it to adjust > from both sides so that you can centre up the belay loop. > > Mike
I'm having difficulty locating harnesses with dual-adjust waist belts. Do you have any names?
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 01.09.07 20:51 Uhr |
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Hi, Gordon & all,
"Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote in message news:h7mdnWFBsso3AkTb4p2dnAA@eclipse.net.uk... > Mike Clark wrote: > >> >> [4] If you're going to be wearing the harness over different layers of >> clothing, e.g. in summer and winter use, you might want it to adjust >> from both sides so that you can centre up the belay loop.
Very sound advice, makes all the difference. I'd also agree that trying on the harness and hanging in it from a beam will be helpful. If the shop assistant looks blank, you're in the wrong shop.
>> >> Mike > > I'm having difficulty locating harnesses with dual-adjust waist belts. Do > you have any names?
Petzl - this Calidris replaced the Gourou which I've used for both summer and winter climbing [externer Link] ; they have lots of others. IMHO, Petzl stuff is excellent, and they offer superb technical backup on their website and in the catalogue.
HTH, safe climbing,
Steve P
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 03.09.07 09:55 Uhr |
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Steve Pardoe wrote:
>> I'm having difficulty locating harnesses with dual-adjust waist belts. Do >> you have any names? > > Petzl - this Calidris replaced the Gourou which I've used for both summer > and winter climbing [externer Link] ; they > have lots of others.
The Petzl Corax is another, being a slightly simplified version of the Calidris. I'm not a huge fan of these Petzl harnesses personally, but lots of people seem to love them.
The new Wild Country Synchro is very good. Its relatively bulky and has lots of features, so its no ideal if you're thinking 'minimal'. [externer Link]
The DMM 'Renegade': [externer Link] only has one buckle at the waist, but does have a 'floating waist design' meaning that you can centre up the belt anyway. (Essentially the padding, gear loops etc., is like a sleeve over the structural waist belt, so after doing up the buckle you can slide it around a bit to centralise the gear loops.) I tried one and couldn't get on with it at all, but I'm a bit of a funny shape.
Also, Black Diamond do a twin (pre-threaded) buckle version of the Focus [externer Link]
hth Sean x
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 04.09.07 23:12 Uhr |
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On Sat, 01 Sep 2007 18:21:29 +0100, Gordon <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote:
>Mike Clark wrote: > >> >> [4] If you're going to be wearing the harness over different layers of >> clothing, e.g. in summer and winter use, you might want it to adjust >> from both sides so that you can centre up the belay loop. >> >> Mike > >I'm having difficulty locating harnesses with dual-adjust waist belts. >Do you have any names?
My recently purchased Petzl Corax has this feature.
<looks down thread>
Oh, and I see you've bought one! -- Champ
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 04.09.07 16:23 Uhr |
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"Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote in message news:FNudnXnPR9IKukXbnZ2dnUVZ8rKdnZ2d@eclipse.net.uk... >I may be returning to climbing in the near future. As I got rid of most of >my gear a couple of years ago, what would be the consensus of opinion for a >good all-round harness for intermediate (probably up to HVS) grades and >some Alpine/Scottish winter work? > > ta! >
Thanks to all who replied - I've gone with a Petzl Corax....the measurements of which would seem to be WAY out. the size 1 is supposed to be 35.4" max waist. I have a 36" waist and there was BAGS of room even in my winter climbing gear. (And boy, did I sweat in the shop this afternoon!)
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.09.07 11:20 Uhr |
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Hi, Gordon & all,
"Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote in message news:U5GdnRgg9_Tv90DbnZ2dnUVZ8q-rnZ2d@eclipse.net.uk... > "Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote in message > news:FNudnXnPR9IKukXbnZ2dnUVZ8rKdnZ2d@eclipse.net.uk... > >I may be returning to climbing in the near future. As I got rid of most of > >my gear a couple of years ago, what would be the consensus of opinion for a > >good all-round harness for intermediate (probably up to HVS) grades and > >some Alpine/Scottish winter work? > > > > ta! > > > > > Thanks to all who replied - I've gone with a Petzl Corax....the measurements > of which would seem to be WAY out. the size 1 is supposed to be 35.4" max > waist. I have a 36" waist and there was BAGS of room even in my winter > climbing gear. (And boy, did I sweat in the shop this afternoon!)
I guess the waist size refers to a naked person ;-)
I'm sure this will be as in eggs, grannies and sucking, but you won't be tempted (as I've seen some people do) to tie-in to the vertical belay loop, will you?
HTH, enjoy your return to the crags. Where are you likely to be? There are a few of us former North West Face [1] bimblers who still meet up in the Peak / Cheshire sandstone areas occasionally, if you are interested in joining us some time.
Steve
[1] We used to get into trouble for advertising our meets here, so I won't, but you could be added to our circular e-mailing list.
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.09.07 13:19 Uhr |
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"Steve Pardoe" <steveSP@AMpardoes.com> wrote in message news:4YSdndUoJYZP6UPbRVnyhQA@pipex.net...
> > I'm sure this will be as in eggs, grannies and sucking, but you won't be > tempted (as I've seen some people do) to tie-in to the vertical belay > loop, > will you?
I did see on one web site a harness that is designed to not fail if the user ties into a GEAR LOOP.......BWAHAHAHAHA!
> > HTH, enjoy your return to the crags. Where are you likely to be? There > are > a few of us former North West Face [1] bimblers who still meet up in the > Peak / Cheshire sandstone areas occasionally, if you are interested in > joining us some time. > > Steve > > [1] We used to get into trouble for advertising our meets here, so I > won't, > but you could be added to our circular e-mailing list. >
Hi, thanks! I live about ten miles SW of the Roaches....drop me an email at gordonDOTburgessparkerATgbpcomputingDOTcoDOTuk.... (I'm not A GOOD climber BTW, need a lot of confidence building. I fell off on my very first climb about 20 years ago....)
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.09.07 18:06 Uhr |
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Hi, Gordon & all,
"Gordon" <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> wrote in message news:CpSdnXDPSP5cDUPbnZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@eclipse.net.uk... > "Steve Pardoe" <steveSP@AMpardoes.com> wrote in message > news:4YSdndUoJYZP6UPbRVnyhQA@pipex.net...
> Hi, thanks! I live about ten miles SW of the Roaches....drop me an email > at gordonDOTburgessparkerATgbpcomputingDOTcoDOTuk....
Right, I'll try to remember to add you in next time we're going out. We had planned Windgather this evening, but it seems more likely that we'll head indoors now.
[externer Link] has links to some stuff we used to do as a group.
> (I'm not A GOOD climber BTW, need a lot of confidence building. I fell off > on my very first climb about 20 years ago....)
I only started climbing in 1999, when I was already 51, and so not only am I not good, but I have come to terms with the fact that I never will be - my personal comfort zone is shrinking after a few near misses. I can still enjoy leading a nice VDiff or the odd Severe on a good day, though.
Steve P
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.09.07 13:28 Uhr |
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In article <4YSdndUoJYZP6UPbRVnyhQA@pipex.net>, Steve Pardoe <steveSP@AMpardoes.com> writes >We used to get into trouble for advertising our meets here, so I won't, >but you could be added to our circular e-mailing list.
At least when you did there was some on topic content in the group!
--
Dominic Sexton
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.09.07 14:00 Uhr |
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"Dominic Sexton" <{d-sep03}@dscs.demon.co.uk> wrote in message news:4tDMYZoQLp3GFwvN@nospam.demon.co.uk... > In article <4YSdndUoJYZP6UPbRVnyhQA@pipex.net>, Steve Pardoe > <steveSP@AMpardoes.com> writes >>We used to get into trouble for advertising our meets here, so I won't, >>but you could be added to our circular e-mailing list. > > At least when you did there was some on topic content in the group! >
Why would advertising climbing meets be off-topic in a err...CLIMBING group?
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.09.07 14:18 Uhr |
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Gordon wrote: > "Dominic Sexton" <{d-sep03}@dscs.demon.co.uk> wrote in message > news:4tDMYZoQLp3GFwvN@nospam.demon.co.uk... >> In article <4YSdndUoJYZP6UPbRVnyhQA@pipex.net>, Steve Pardoe >> <steveSP@AMpardoes.com> writes >>> We used to get into trouble for advertising our meets here, so I won't, >>> but you could be added to our circular e-mailing list. >> At least when you did there was some on topic content in the group! >> > > > Why would advertising climbing meets be off-topic in a err...CLIMBING group?
Why would self appointed anal net-police let such a consideration stop them? ;-/
Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk [externer Link]
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.09.07 14:28 Uhr |
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In article <rs2dnYjtjNvJB0PbnZ2dnUVZ8qminZ2d@eclipse.net.uk>, Gordon <gbplinux@gmail.com.invalid> writes >"Dominic Sexton" <{d-sep03}@dscs.demon.co.uk> wrote in message >news:4tDMYZoQLp3GFwvN@nospam.demon.co.uk... >> In article <4YSdndUoJYZP6UPbRVnyhQA@pipex.net>, Steve Pardoe >> <steveSP@AMpardoes.com> writes >>>We used to get into trouble for advertising our meets here, so I won't, >>>but you could be added to our circular e-mailing list. >> >> At least when you did there was some on topic content in the group! >> > > >Why would advertising climbing meets be off-topic in a err...CLIMBING group?
It wasn't off topic but many of the regular contributors to this group were also regulars at the North West Face climbing wall on a weekly basis. Banter about their meets at the wall and in the open was a fair proportion of the posts in the group. Some small minded folk objected to that so the banter left.
Subsequently the activity on the group has sadly dwindled to almost nothing. I'm not saying that the removal of the NWF posse's posts led to the decline of the group but it certainly added to it and many of the threads did have posts from members of the NWF group.
In my opinion discouraging any on topic posts, even those that are of very local interest like in this case, is a mistake...
--
Dominic Sexton
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 06.09.07 00:41 Uhr |
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Steve Pardoe wrote:
> [1] We used to get into trouble for advertising our meets here, so I > [won't, but you could be added to our circular e-mailing list.
That was back when there was some traffic* on this ng (and the bitching about the 'NWF' threads was far from unanimous even then). I really don't think it'd be a problem.
Sean x
* Nice to see some now. :o)
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.10.07 16:35 Uhr |
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Hi everyone - long time, no see (unless you go the NWF).
Anyway, where were we? Ah yes, harnesses: For Alpine and Winter as well as all-round crag/wall use, I've just got myself Wild Country Vision Ziplock Adjustable. It's brilliant. It's adjustable, has no frills, good gear loops and I've found it great on Bosigran, Avon Wall, NWF (twice in one post, ha!), some grit and it's also been fine on big abs down seacliffs. Highly recommended.
Quiet round here isn't it?
Cheers
Dunc
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.10.07 16:46 Uhr |
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Duncan wrote:
> Wild Country Vision Ziplock Adjustable. Cool. I bought one of the new Synchros not so long ago and I'm liking that a lot too. Perhaps a bit gimmicky, and I still haven't quite worked out how I want to rack my gear over 6 loops instead of 4, but very comfy.
> Quiet round here isn't it? Sssh. You'll wake the lurkers. :o)
Sean x
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.10.07 22:17 Uhr |
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Too bloody late, you have woken me up now.
Patrick
"Sean" <sean@nospamtaverymuch.com> wrote in message news:Y8mdnYG1lfv905vanZ2dnUVZ8vudnZ2d@pipex.net... > Duncan wrote: > >> Wild Country Vision Ziplock Adjustable. > Cool. I bought one of the new Synchros not so long ago and I'm liking > that > a lot too. Perhaps a bit gimmicky, and I still haven't quite worked out > how I want to rack my gear over 6 loops instead of 4, but very comfy. > >> Quiet round here isn't it? > Sssh. You'll wake the lurkers. :o) > > Sean > x
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 06.10.07 13:56 Uhr |
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Patrick Manuel wrote:
> Too bloody late, you have woken me up now.
Sorry. Normal service will be resumed shortly..
zzzz...
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 12.10.07 11:20 Uhr |
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In message <Y8mdnYG1lfv905vanZ2dnUVZ8vudnZ2d@pipex.net>, Sean <sean@nospamtaverymuch.com> writes
>Sssh. You'll wake the lurkers. :o)
Can you keep that racket down please?
People are trying to sleep, you know.
-- Steve Gray Addresses munged to protect the innocent
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 13.10.07 13:06 Uhr |
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"Steve Gray" <steve@blah_de_blah.com> wrote in message news:0v+L2mFNxzDHRAzL@wcompsys.co.uk... > In message <Y8mdnYG1lfv905vanZ2dnUVZ8vudnZ2d@pipex.net>, Sean > <sean@nospamtaverymuch.com> writes > >>Sssh. You'll wake the lurkers. :o) > > Can you keep that racket down please? > > People are trying to sleep, you know.
Wow, hi Steve, that's an impressively delayed de-lurk! How's tricks?
Steve 'Steve' P
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 15.10.07 13:11 Uhr |
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In message <v_adnWz8abV4O43anZ2dnUVZ8sKlnZ2d@pipex.net>, Steve Pardoe <steveSP@AMpardoes.com> writes >"Steve Gray" <steve@blah_de_blah.com> wrote in message >news:0v+L2mFNxzDHRAzL@wcompsys.co.uk... >> In message <Y8mdnYG1lfv905vanZ2dnUVZ8vudnZ2d@pipex.net>, Sean >> <sean@nospamtaverymuch.com> writes >> >>>Sssh. You'll wake the lurkers. :o) >> >> Can you keep that racket down please? >> >> People are trying to sleep, you know. > >Wow, hi Steve, that's an impressively delayed de-lurk! How's tricks?
Canny, thanks. Baby #4 is limiting my climbing opportunities as well as my sleep, though.
On the plus side, I got a go on one of those mobile tower wall things the other day. The owner made me wear a helmet - I think there must have been a danger of being hit by small children falling off the top, or something. I got my own back by taking all day to downclimb it ;-)
Since this thread is about harnesses, I suppose I could risk a serious question. Is it still accepted wisdom that hipless young kids need a full-body harness? This wall was using the usual sit ones and I assume that was an acceptable level of risk for the insurance company.
-- Steve Gray Addresses munged to protect the innocent
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 15.10.07 14:08 Uhr |
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Hi, Steve & all,
"Steve Gray" <steve@blah_de_blah.com> wrote in message news:wp3qncA1r0EHRA7l@wcompsys.co.uk... <snips> > Canny, thanks. Baby #4 is limiting my climbing opportunities as well as > my sleep, though.
Golly-gosh, 4 sprogs, huh? No wonder you don't post here so much. Must spend all yer time on uk.rec.babyminding or summat.
> On the plus side, I got a go on one of those mobile tower wall things > the other day. The owner made me wear a helmet - I think there must have > been a danger of being hit by small children falling off the top, or > something. I got my own back by taking all day to downclimb it ;-)
There's nothing unusual in a route seeming to take me all day, up, down or sideways ;-)
> Since this thread is about harnesses, I suppose I could risk a serious > question. Is it still accepted wisdom that hipless young kids need a > full-body harness? This wall was using the usual sit ones and I assume > that was an acceptable level of risk for the insurance company.
No doubt Pete Clinch will be along in a mo, but I've always felt that a full-body harness (e.g. Petzl Ouistiti) was a good idea for young 'uns. Whenever we've taken our grandchildren to the NWF (oops) we've rented a Ouistiti, and in fact I've been thinking of buying one for them before we take them outside.
Last time I was at the crag with the teenage daughter of a friend, we used her own 'normal' harness, but were careful to ensure that the waist belt was high above the hips and really cinched in. One of the advantages of the Ouistiti is that the buckles are at the back, so it's harder for the child to fiddle with them when you're not looking.
Steve (P)
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 15.10.07 16:11 Uhr |
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Steve Gray wrote:
> Since this thread is about harnesses, I suppose I could risk a serious > question. Is it still accepted wisdom that hipless young kids need a > full-body harness?
I believe so, hipless kids and enormously tubby adults. (Though you don't see many of the latter climbing for pleasure.)
> This wall was using the usual sit ones and I assume > that was an acceptable level of risk for the insurance company.
I guess it must have been, but just out of curiosity, how young were the kids?
Sean x
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 19.10.07 12:52 Uhr |
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In message <wLWdneb9JLKE6I7a4p2dnAA@pipex.net>, Sean <sean@nospamtaverymuch.com> writes >Steve Gray wrote: > >> This wall was using the usual sit ones and I assume >> that was an acceptable level of risk for the insurance company. > >I guess it must have been, but just out of curiosity, how young were the >kids?
Six or seven up to... well, the biggest kid on the wall was me at 37.
Thinking about it, I've never been convinced that kids can fall out of a sit harness that's done up properly, particularly if it's got adjustable leg loops. It would take an upside-down lead fall at just the wrong angle, I'd have thought.
Maybe the real issue is that your margin for error in putting the harness on properly is reduced, but at these kind of walls it's done by the bloke in charge.
-- Steve Gray Addresses munged to protect the innocent
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Harness question | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 05.10.07 17:07 Uhr |
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"Duncan" <finditout@ourwebsite.here.com> wrote in message news:fe5i3j$1jg0$1@godfrey.mcc.ac.uk... > > Hi everyone - long time, no see (unless you go the NWF). > > Anyway, where were we? Ah yes, harnesses: For Alpine and Winter as well as > all-round crag/wall use, I've just got myself Wild Country Vision Ziplock > Adjustable. It's brilliant. It's adjustable, has no frills, good gear > loops and I've found it great on Bosigran, Avon Wall, NWF (twice in one > post, ha!), some grit and it's also been fine on big abs down seacliffs. > Highly recommended. >
I was torn between that and the Petzl Corax - decided on the Corax as it gave me a bit more adjustment in the waistbelt - (I /might/ lose some weight at some stage!)
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