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Climb locations and grades - help needed | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 19.07.06 07:38 Uhr |
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Auf diese Nachricht antworten!  |
Hi there,
I am trying to identify the grade and crag of some climbs I did some years
ago for my professional log book. I only have partial records from back in
1976 and I do not have all the right guidebooks out here, so any help would
be great.
"Nor Nor Buttress". Is it on the Milestone Buttress in Ogwen Valley? Also
does anyone have its grade?
"Holloway". Craig Pant Ifan. What grade is it?
"Mangoletsi". " " " " " " "?
Great Western. Is it on Craig Y Castell?
"Physicists Pleasaunce". Is it on Craig Nith Y Gigfran and what grade is it?
I think it may be around HVD? We also did "Mean Feet" that day!?
"Inverted Stairway" or should that be Staircase - not sure? Craig Y Clipiau
I think but could someone please confirm the name and grade?
"Samaritan Corner" Gimmer I think and I am also unsure of the grade?
"Middlefell Buttress" Gimmer. What grade is it? I think it is left of
"Kipling Groove" which we also did the same day if my geography is correct?
"Curtain Wall" Raven crag I think but again I am unsure of the exact
location and its grade?
Any help would be gratefully received
John B
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Climb locations and grades - help needed | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 19.07.06 08:53 Uhr |
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On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 17:38:11 +1200, "John Broadwell" <jeb@ihug.co.nz> said:
> "Nor Nor Buttress". Is it on the Milestone Buttress in Ogwen Valley?
There is one on round the corner on the East Face of Tryfan
> Also does anyone have its grade?
Difficult
> "Holloway". Craig Pant Ifan. What grade is it?
HVS
> "Mangoletsi". " " " " " " "?
E3 **
> Great Western. Is it on Craig Y Castell?
Craig Pant Ifan
VS *
> "Physicists Pleasaunce". Is it on Craig Nith Y Gigfran and what
> grade is it? I think it may be around HVD?
Sorry - can't find that one - I don't seem to have a copy of the
definitive Moelwyns guide.
> We also did "Mean Feet" that day!?
Craig Y Clipau, HVS
> "Inverted Stairway" or should that be Staircase - not sure? Craig Y
> Clipiau I think but could someone please confirm the name and grade?
You have the correct crag, Inverted Staircase, VS **
> "Samaritan Corner" Gimmer I think and I am also unsure of the grade?
Gimmer, HS
> "Middlefell Buttress" Gimmer.
There is one on Raven Crag.
> What grade is it?
D ***
> I think it is left of "Kipling Groove" which we also did the same
> day if my geography is correct?
Kipling Groove is on Gimmer, HVS ***
> "Curtain Wall" Raven crag I think but again I am unsure of the exact
> location and its grade?
It's a variation on Middlefell Buttress. D
--
Alan J. Wylie [externer Link]
"Perfection [in design] is achieved not when there is nothing left to add,
but rather when there is nothing left to take away."
-- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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Climb locations and grades - help needed | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 22.07.06 06:59 Uhr |
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Alan,
Thank you for your excellent and comprehensive answers, they will help me
enormously in keeping an accurate record of those climbs from the high point
of my climbing life all those years ago. Do you have all those guidebooks or
just a good general knowledge of these routes?
If anyone else has any knowledge of the grade on "Physicists Pleasaunce" on
Craig Nith Y Gigfran then I would be very pleased to know. I think it is
around HVD.
Mark, I tried [externer Link] it is a very useful
website for which I thank you but I had no luck locating this quiet crag on
there, hopefully someone will let me know at some point.
Thanks
John
>> "Nor Nor Buttress". Is it on the Milestone Buttress in Ogwen Valley?
>
> There is one on round the corner on the East Face of Tryfan
>
>> Also does anyone have its grade?
>
> Difficult
>
>> "Holloway". Craig Pant Ifan. What grade is it?
>
> HVS
>
>> "Mangoletsi". " " " " " " "?
>
> E3 **
>
>> Great Western. Is it on Craig Y Castell?
>
> Craig Pant Ifan
> VS *
>
>> "Physicists Pleasaunce". Is it on Craig Nith Y Gigfran and what
>> grade is it? I think it may be around HVD?
>
> Sorry - can't find that one - I don't seem to have a copy of the
> definitive Moelwyns guide.
>
>> We also did "Mean Feet" that day!?
>
> Craig Y Clipau, HVS
>
>> "Inverted Stairway" or should that be Staircase - not sure? Craig Y
>> Clipiau I think but could someone please confirm the name and grade?
>
> You have the correct crag, Inverted Staircase, VS **
>
>> "Samaritan Corner" Gimmer I think and I am also unsure of the grade?
>
> Gimmer, HS
>
>> "Middlefell Buttress" Gimmer.
>
> There is one on Raven Crag.
>
>> What grade is it?
>
> D ***
>
>> I think it is left of "Kipling Groove" which we also did the same
>> day if my geography is correct?
>
> Kipling Groove is on Gimmer, HVS ***
>
>> "Curtain Wall" Raven crag I think but again I am unsure of the exact
>> location and its grade?
>
> It's a variation on Middlefell Buttress. D
>
> --
> Alan J. Wylie
> [externer Link]
> "Perfection [in design] is achieved not when there is nothing left to add,
> but rather when there is nothing left to take away."
> -- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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Climb locations and grades - help needed | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 22.07.06 07:06 Uhr |
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Oh dear,
Another senior moment!?!
I forgot to check about "Mangoletsi" is it really E3? I remember it being a
good route, but not harder than "Vector" which was the hardest route I ever
did, yeah! "Vector" and "The Plum" in the same outing - what a great day
that was?
I just wonder if it used to go with aid back in 1976 and was cleaned up
later on which would account for it's current E3 status?
John
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Climb locations and grades - help needed | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 22.07.06 09:32 Uhr |
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John Broadwell <jeb@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
> Oh dear,
>
> Another senior moment!?!
>
> I forgot to check about "Mangoletsi" is it really E3? I remember it being a
> good route, but not harder than "Vector" which was the hardest route I ever
> did, yeah! "Vector" and "The Plum" in the same outing - what a great day
> that was?
>
> I just wonder if it used to go with aid back in 1976 and was cleaned up
> later on which would account for it's current E3 status?
>
> John
Mangoletsi originally climbed up to the roof and then traversed into
Barbarian and then left again before toping out up the last crack of
Pincushion. The present description was known as 'Mangoletsi Direct' and
indeed is E3.
Mangoletsi is given 'Extremely Severe' in the Crew & Harris Guide,
published in 1970 by West Col Productions. This was before 'E' grades
were invented! Nowadays the original way has been forgotten and is now
described in it direct form.
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Climb locations and grades - help needed | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 22.07.06 15:52 Uhr |
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On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 16:59:54 +1200, "John Broadwell" <jeb@ihug.co.nz> said:
> Do you have all those guidebooks or just a good general knowledge of
> these routes?
I have a shelf full of guidebooks, though few of them have seen the
foot of a crag for many years :-(
--
Alan J. Wylie [externer Link]
"Perfection [in design] is achieved not when there is nothing left to add,
but rather when there is nothing left to take away."
-- Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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Climb locations and grades - help needed | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 27.07.06 09:45 Uhr |
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On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 16:59:54 +1200, "John Broadwell" <jeb@ihug.co.nz>
wrote:
>
>If anyone else has any knowledge of the grade on "Physicists Pleasaunce" on
>Craig Nith Y Gigfran then I would be very pleased to know. I think it is
>around HVD.
>
Is it:
Physicists' Pleasaunce, Craig y Clipiau (which seems to be called
Craig Nyth y gigfran on the OS map) , Moderate (90 feet).
This is in my 1970 Snowdon East guide. The route is no longer
mentioned in the current (Meirionedd) guide, in fact it wasn't
included in the 1983 Tremadog/Moelwyns guide either.
Hope this helps!
Simon
--
Oppose ID cards and the database state
[externer Link]
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Climb locations and grades - help needed | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 21.07.06 11:00 Uhr |
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| Auf diese Nachricht antworten! |
John Broadwell wrote:
> Hi there,
>
>
>
> I am trying to identify the grade and crag of some climbs I did some years
> ago for my professional log book. I only have partial records from back in
> 1976 and I do not have all the right guidebooks out here, so any help would
> be great.
>
>
You've already had a decent reply, but the crag database at
[externer Link]
would be quite good for this, although it doesn't have everything.
Mark
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