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Es wird keine Haftung für fremde Inhalte übernommen (siehe Impressum) | | |  Zurück zur Übersicht |  | TR : Curbar, Saturday | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 09.10.06 13:13 Uhr |
| | Auf diese Nachricht antworten!  | Hi, all,
When I arrived for my first trip to Curbar, having walked in from the Gap
parking, I found John M & Goi at Avalanche Wall. I strolled north in search
of The French Bloke and found him warming up on some boulder problems in the
Kayak Slab area. Returning to collect my 'sac, I met Marek and his son
Chris, who had also just arrived.
Arnaud & I walked a little further on to Potter's Wall (HS 4b) which a
couple of chaps had just finished with, and Arnaud led. Nice grade for a
warm-up, some excellent moves, enough gear lower down, and although the
top-out is poorly protected it's a fairly safe finish (especially for the
second!).
Then back to Baron's Wall, where Arnaud led the eponymous HVS (5b). The
start is unprotected and involves a sharp undercling (which I couldn't quite
hold on its own), sketchy padding and a long reach to a 'sinker' pocket.
Seconding, I came off and had a bit of a swing, owing to the gear being off
to the left. I resorted to a sneaky sidle in from the right, shuffling my
right hand up the arete until I could get balanced and detach it long enough
to latch the pocket. After that, the break (with the first gear) was easily
gained, and the delightful crack above beckoned. I found it quite awkward
to get into, but very nice after that, though with a typical grit top-out.
Good route.
Now it was time I took the front of the rope, so I had a look at Calver
Wall, on the basis that it had an easier continuation, Brindle Crack. I got
some gear in from the ground to protect my back from the big block, and
moved up easily to the 'cycle lane' ledge, very comfortable but not ideal to
fall onto (I prefer air). I had a look at the Calver Wall crack, moved up a
bit and got some reasonable pro in, but decided to back off, inelegantly
retrieved the gear and walked a few metres along the ledge to Brindle Crack
instead. This was more feasible for me, and more easily protected. Almost
at the top, a foot slipped and I had a slight "Oscar Foxtrot" moment, but
hung on and hauled through the top-out OK, pleased to have persevered.
Arnaud cruised it, naturellement.
I'd been recommended to try P.M.C.1, and had scoped it when I met John &
Goi, so we went back there and I had another look. The start seemed fine,
but I wasn't too enamoured of the blank-looking upper section, so I
persuaded Arnaud to lead it (he didn't need much persuasion) and followed in
due course. I managed to f-up my footwork while getting some gear out (very
small cams - note for Christmas list) and had to down-climb a bit which
confused my trusty belayer (out of sight), but after that it was brilliant.
As Arnaud put it, the moves out onto the face / flake seem improbable at the
grade, but it's all there, and deserves its three stars for the superb
combination of situation and exposure. I really ought to try leading it
next time.
Arnaud still had some fuel (and neck) left, so back to Kayak Slab and a look
at Canoe (E3 6a), which was very wet at the top, and not safe to finish for
someone with a big interview the next day. Kayak was a more realistic line,
and Arnaud made this look very comfortable (I won't say easy). A great
onsight solo to end on.
Swifty at the Bridge (nice mild) and a natter finished an excellent
afternoon, so thanks again to Arnaud for the rope-holding, and a good time
all round.
SP
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| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | TR : Curbar, Saturday | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 09.10.06 16:11 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! | Steve Pardoe wrote:
Ey up, not seen a TR around here for a while. :)
> I'd been recommended to try P.M.C.1 <snippage> I really ought to
> try leading it next time.
You should, you should. :) If you sort out your footwork its very
straightforward, you get a lot of exposure for not much difficulty.
The last time I did PMC1, there was a rather beautiful butterfly fluttering
about me, which settled on the crimpy little handhold just ahead of me.
It could have been one of those 'zen' moments for a more sensitive leader,
wasted on me I'm afraid, it was an "Oi, butterfly, bugger off!" moment
instead.
> and a good time all round.
Sounds it, well done and ta for posting. Nice to know Youarsey's not quite
dead yet. :)
Sean
x
|
| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | TR : Curbar, Saturday | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 09.10.06 21:37 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! | Hi, Sean & all,
"Sean" <sean@deepMUNGEsoup.com> wrote in message
news:egdlb8$2uo$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> Steve Pardoe wrote:
>
> Ey up, not seen a TR around here for a while. :)
No, people rather seem to have lost the habit. You know how to find the
archive, though.
>> I'd been recommended to try P.M.C.1 <snippage> I really ought to
>> try leading it next time.
>
> You should, you should. :) If you sort out your footwork its very
> straightforward, you get a lot of exposure for not much difficulty.
>
> The last time I did PMC1, there was a rather beautiful butterfly
> fluttering
> about me, which settled on the crimpy little handhold just ahead of me.
> It could have been one of those 'zen' moments for a more sensitive leader,
> wasted on me I'm afraid, it was an "Oi, butterfly, bugger off!" moment
> instead.
I don't suppose it bore a grudge.
>> and a good time all round.
>
> Sounds it, well done and ta for posting. Nice to know Youarsey's not
> quite
> dead yet. :)
Not quite, though it seems that many have migrated to UKClimbing.com,
perhaps because their corporate IT runs M$ Outlook, which doesn't have a
newsreader, and if you're going to use a browser for Usenet you might as
well go to UKC. Shame, really, I rather like the asceticism of Usenet.
Steve
|
| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | TR : Curbar, Saturday | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 20.10.06 15:38 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! |
"Steve Pardoe" <steveSP@AMpardoes.com> wrote in message
news:qvudnQVdGrCZOLfYnZ2dnUVZ8tadnZ2d@pipex.net...
> Hi, Sean & all,
> > Sounds it, well done and ta for posting. Nice to know Youarsey's not
> > quite
> > dead yet. :)
>
> Not quite, though it seems that many have migrated to UKClimbing.com,
> perhaps because their corporate IT runs M$ Outlook, which doesn't have a
> newsreader, and if you're going to use a browser for Usenet you might as
> well go to UKC. Shame, really, I rather like the asceticism of Usenet.
Many familiar UArsey names are on UKC now. JoHNy was even there for quite a
while (though now banned forever). He wasn't a bad bloke IRL ( I climbed
with him twice, and he held a whipper that I took, so I'm feeling
charitable). Smashed himself up badly earlier this year, if anyone's
interested. He forgot to tie in at a wall and fell 30 ft. Smashed up
nearly everything: ribs, arm, legs, pelvis, you name it. 4 weeks in
hospital and nearly didn't make it. Think he's given up climbing now!
Rob
|
| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | Johny (was TR : Curbar, Saturday) | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 20.10.06 22:56 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! | Rob Naylor wrote:
> Many familiar UArsey names are on UKC now.
I've spotted a few, I read/post quite a bit there myself now that I'm on
broadband.
> He wasn't a bad bloke IRL
Weird. :)
> Smashed himself up badly earlier this year, if anyone's
> interested. He forgot to tie in at a wall and fell 30 ft.
Was it one of those auto-belay things by any chance?
> 4 weeks in hospital and nearly didn't make it.
Grim. I don't think I'd have wished that on him even when he was at his
most annoying. Well, ok, yes I would, but I didn't mean it really and I
feel vaguely guilty about it now.
Sean
x
|
| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | Johny (was TR : Curbar, Saturday) | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 01.11.06 11:35 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! |
"Sean" <sean@deepMUNGEsoup.com> wrote in message
news:ehbd68$g1k$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> Rob Naylor wrote:
>
> > Many familiar UArsey names are on UKC now.
> I've spotted a few, I read/post quite a bit there myself now that I'm on
> broadband.
>
> > He wasn't a bad bloke IRL
> Weird. :)
I thought so too: couldn't quite reconcile the venomous bastard of the
boards with the "thoroughky nice chap" belaying me.
> > Smashed himself up badly earlier this year, if anyone's
> > interested. He forgot to tie in at a wall and fell 30 ft.
> Was it one of those auto-belay things by any chance?
Nope...just a "Lyn Hill" moment, I think: got distracted and forgot to
complete his knot.
> > 4 weeks in hospital and nearly didn't make it.
> Grim. I don't think I'd have wished that on him even when he was at his
> most annoying. Well, ok, yes I would, but I didn't mean it really and I
> feel vaguely guilty about it now.
;-)
Rob
|
| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | TR : Curbar, Saturday | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 21.10.06 16:36 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! | Hi, Rob, Sean, & all,
"Rob Naylor" <rnaylor@itl.wellmunnged.uk.com> wrote in message
news:1161351516.84327.0@iris.uk.clara.net...
<snip>
> Many familiar UArsey names are on UKC now. JoHNy was even there for quite
> a
> while (though now banned forever). He wasn't a bad bloke IRL ( I climbed
> with him twice, and he held a whipper that I took, so I'm feeling
> charitable).
You'd have to, really. Life-savers are forever good guys. Adrian Japp (who
used to post here quite a bit) saved me at Burbage when I decked out on (or
rather off) Mutiny Crack. I was way too high above the gear, so he threw
himself backwards and just stopped me as I landed on rope stretch. Big
bruises, but nowt compared with what most belayers would have allowed to
happen. Respect.
> Smashed himself up badly earlier this year, if anyone's
> interested. He forgot to tie in at a wall and fell 30 ft. Smashed up
> nearly everything: ribs, arm, legs, pelvis, you name it. 4 weeks in
> hospital and nearly didn't make it. Think he's given up climbing now!
Sheesh, no, I really wouldn't wish that on anyone. Poor guy. TBFTGOG, etc.
Steve
|
| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | TR : Curbar, Saturday | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 01.11.06 11:44 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! |
"Steve Pardoe" <steveSP@AMpardoes.com> wrote in message
news:v5adna3cXPrqrafYRVnyjg@pipex.net...
> Hi, Rob, Sean, & all,
>
> "Rob Naylor" <rnaylor@itl.wellmunnged.uk.com> wrote in message
> news:1161351516.84327.0@iris.uk.clara.net...
> <snip>
> > Many familiar UArsey names are on UKC now. JoHNy was even there for
quite
> > a
> > while (though now banned forever). He wasn't a bad bloke IRL ( I
climbed
> > with him twice, and he held a whipper that I took, so I'm feeling
> > charitable).
>
> You'd have to, really. Life-savers are forever good guys. Adrian Japp
(who
> used to post here quite a bit) saved me at Burbage when I decked out on
(or
> rather off) Mutiny Crack. I was way too high above the gear, so he threw
> himself backwards and just stopped me as I landed on rope stretch. Big
> bruises, but nowt compared with what most belayers would have allowed to
> happen. Respect.
I only met Mr Japp once, very briefly, and didn't know who he was. His mate
(Burnzee?) had just smashed his leg at Birchen and my group were next door.
Fiona, a nurse with us, and Chris, another of our group, helped with the
casualty until the Rescue Team arrived. Had a few words with him but had no
idea who he was until he posted something about the incident on here, with
links to photos.
Anyone who holds my vast bulk in a dodgy fall is a good guy/girl, in my
books.
Rob
|
| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | TR : Curbar, Saturday | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 02.11.06 19:59 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! | Hi, Rob & all,
"Rob Naylor" <rnaylor@itl.wellmunnged.uk.com> wrote in message
news:1162377862.36695.0@despina.uk.clara.net...
>
<snip>
> I only met Mr Japp once, very briefly, and didn't know who he was. His
> mate
> (Burnzee?)
That's right, Stuart Burns, now a Man of the Cloth, I believe. He's another
one who's caught me, that time on Central Trinity at Stanage, though my gear
was OK and no deck-out ensued.
> had just smashed his leg at Birchen and my group were next door.
I think it was on Ratline, though I wasn't there that day.
> Fiona, a nurse with us, and Chris, another of our group, helped with the
> casualty until the Rescue Team arrived. Had a few words with him but had
> no
> idea who he was until he posted something about the incident on here, with
> links to photos.
[externer Link] if you want to
refresh your memory!
> Anyone who holds my vast bulk in a dodgy fall is a good guy/girl, in my
> books.
Indeed.
Cheers,
Steve
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