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Es wird keine Haftung für fremde Inhalte übernommen (siehe Impressum) | | |  Zurück zur Übersicht |  | American Living in Edinburgh Curious About Climbing In The UK | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 12.10.06 11:48 Uhr |
| | Auf diese Nachricht antworten!  | Hello, I recently moved to the UK with my wife and I just wanted to
know more about climbing culture in the UK. Like what are your
attitudes about bolts or sport-climbing? How do you feel about Free
solo climbing? I am just curious about basic climbing philosophies,
strategies for weather, technique, gear, the general lowdown on UK
climbing. And of course, if someone could let me know where to climb in
and around Edinburgh and Scotland that would be good as well. Cheers!
|
| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | American Living in Edinburgh Curious About Climbing In The UK | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 12.10.06 12:08 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! | mind.body.split@gmail.com wrote:
> Hello, I recently moved to the UK with my wife and I just wanted to
> know more about climbing culture in the UK. Like what are your
> attitudes about bolts or sport-climbing?
Variable. Some places are bolt free and there is very much opposition
to that changing, but there are some sport climbing venues where they're
kosher. Speak to local climbers for a better view.
> climbing. And of course, if someone could let me know where to climb in
> and around Edinburgh and Scotland that would be good as well.
Pick up the local guide at Tiso's for details on the local crags. Alien
Rock ([externer Link] ) is your local wall, the Ratho
Climbing Centre is due to reopen in January.
Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk [externer Link]
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| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | American Living in Edinburgh Curious About Climbing In The UK | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 12.10.06 14:05 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! | Peter Clinch wrote:
> Variable.
What he said. The climbing ethic in the UK is mostly trad, 'adventure'
climbing if you like - natural gear placed whilst leading.
There is some bolted limestone sport climbing, though not much in the lower
grades. Its maybe a bit telling that bolted sport routes in the UK are
almost always given French grades in guides these days, its somehow more
appropriate than the British grading system which is much better at
describing trad climbs.
There are some small sandstone outcrops in Sussex which, being the only
climbable rock within commuting distance of London, have assumed more
importance than they really deserve to many people. The rock is very soft,
so there's no leading allowed there, you either solo or toprope.
I'm not sure that there *is* an attitude to 'free' soloing. I'm sure we all
think its pretty silly to attempt a solo that's clearly beyond your
abilities, other than that if you want to solo a route, good luck to you.
There are a lot of routes on my local rock, Peak District Gritstone, which
are described as "bold", and are essentially solos. The 'trad' ethic
prevails despite there being very little natural gear on the route. Grit
outcrops aren't very tall, as a rule, typically around 60 feet.
Oh, and there's no worthwhile aid climbing. Ironically, there are some very
good (mostly pretty hard) free climbs that have been created by cracks
being opened up through years of having pegs hammered in. Aiding them
these days would be distinctly frowned upon.
>> climbing. And of course, if someone could let me know where to climb in
>> and around Edinburgh and Scotland that would be good as well.
Can't help you there, though its always struck me as a great city to live
in. (Except for August.) I hope you enjoy it.
Best of luck.
Sean.
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| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | American Living in Edinburgh Curious About Climbing In The UK | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 30.10.06 12:00 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! | Peter Clinch <p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk> wrote:
> mind.body.split@gmail.com wrote:
>> Hello, I recently moved to the UK with my wife and I just wanted to
>> know more about climbing culture in the UK. Like what are your
>> attitudes about bolts or sport-climbing?
> Variable. Some places are bolt free and there is very much opposition
> to that changing, but there are some sport climbing venues where they're
> kosher. Speak to local climbers for a better view.
>> climbing. And of course, if someone could let me know where to climb in
>> and around Edinburgh and Scotland that would be good as well.
> Pick up the local guide at Tiso's for details on the local crags. Alien
> Rock ([externer Link] ) is your local wall, the Ratho
> Climbing Centre is due to reopen in January.
Very local (in the city) and free is South Quarry on Salisbury
Crags. That's the only place in Holyrood Park/Arthur's Seat where
climbing is permitted. "Climbing" is defined as using any more aid to
ascent than a walking stick, i.e. the use of hands counts as climbing.
The use of gear is AFAIK not allowed in the South Quarry, so people
mostly do low bouldering type problems, often using fall mats. The
difficult bits have been thoughtfully marked with white chalk.
A nice warm up climb is simply doing a low level traverse from one
side of the quarry to the other without your feet touching the
ground. You're pretty good if you only fall off once doing it. Heroes
and rock tigers can increase the difficulty by wrapping the traverse
round the two corners.
Then also in the city and free is the quarry and Agassiz Rock on the
south side of Blackford Hill. You can use gear there, and there's a
rising "dragon back" section of cliff where plenty of really good
Petzl top roping bolts have been installed for training firemen in
rope access techniques.
--
Chris Malcolm cam@infirmatics.ed.ac.uk DoD #205
IPAB, Informatics, JCMB, King's Buildings, Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK
[[externer Link] ]
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| | | | Zurück zur Übersicht | | American Living in Edinburgh Curious About Climbing In The UK | | Bergsteiger beim Bergsteigen | 13.10.06 19:05 Uhr |
| | | Auf diese Nachricht antworten! | Hi there,
Welcome to Edinburgh!
Climbing in the UK has always had a strong trad ethic, and even now
most climbers tend to on-sight routes on trad gear. Sport climbing
exists: the best of this is in the higher grades, but there still isn't
whole lot of it in Scotland. A few crags with lower grade sport routes
have started to be developed fairly recently: these are almost entirely
short single pitch routes on low-lying outcrops and there is a very
strong ethical stance against bolting on mountain crags. Bouldering is
becoming increasingly popular as a sport in it's own right, with
dedicated guidebooks starting to appear. Free soloing is perfectly
acceptable: mostly this is practiced on small crags where it is akin to
highball bouldering.
Most lead climbing is done using double ropes: a standard rack of wires
and cams is enough for most routes. Micro wires are useful in some
places, but offwidth gear is rarely required.
Of course the weather is a problem: mountain crags may take several
days of dry weather to come into climbable condition, though there are
planty of low grade routes which will go in wet conditions if you are
so inclined! Despite global warming, there is a very active snow and
ice climbing scene in Scotland: conditions are fickle and hard to
predict, but there are superb snow/ice and mixed routes. Lack of
daylight and fierce weather makes the mountains here fell quite serious
for their small height! Dry tooling is generally considered
unacceptable, except as a training method in one or two old quarries:
some covering of snow/ice/frost on the rock is required for a winter
ascent.
As mentioned by Pete, Alien Rock is the local indoor climbing venue:
it's quite good but gets pretty busy. There is some reasonable climbing
in the local area: the SMC Local Outcrops guide has all the details,
but the more popular venues include Traprain Law, Hawkcraig, Limekilns,
Auchinstarry and Cambusbarron. There is a recent produced Selected
Climbs guide for the whole of Scotland which would give you a good
overview.
Northern England is not too far away either: both Northumberland and
Cumbria have some excellent climbing venues too. The rock climbing
season is coming to an end now: November is usually too wet and windy
to get very much done.
This newsgroup gets very little traffic these days: the forums on
[externer Link] \ are much more popular. [externer Link] \ is
also a useful site.
Hope this helps: drop me an email if you need any more info.
Mark.
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